Bibi Graetz Testamatta IGT Toscana Rosso 2022 i trækasse

James Suckling

The purity of fruit is so impressive, with al dente fruit character of sliced cherries, cranberries and citrus fruit that’s wonderfully melted together. It’s medium- to full-bodied and grows on the palate, with firm and layered tannins and a long, intense finish. This needs three to four years to refine but is already so enticing. Great beauty. Already irresistible, but best after 2027.

Decanter

The production of both Testamatta and Colore was cut by two-thirds in 2022, partly because Bibi Graetz didn't want to use his south-facing vineyards in such a hot year. ‘I think there is more power, more energy,’ he says. Certainly, Testamatta is singing, and has closed the gap to Colore in 2022. It displays dusty, earthy notes, creamy dark cherry, green olive and spice on a vertical frame with stark salinity. It's precise and energetic, poised and balletic, with a beautiful vibrancy of tangy raspberry, cherry, wild herbs and a touch of plum.

The Drinks Business

Well made with a lovely sense of finesse and gracious fine-grained tannins.

Owen Bargreen

The 2022 ‘Testamatta’ is a stunning Sangiovese wine made from vines that are roughly 40-50 years of age. On the nose this is very pretty with guava and red cherry notes alongside blood orange zest, worn leather and salty soils. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins and good sense of weight and length. Inviting and broad-shouldered, with loads of structure, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2025-2042

Robert Parker

Made with fruit from all north-facing vineyard sites (mostly in Olmo with a little bit from Lamole), the Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta is engineered to showcase the power of Sangiovese. Indeed, many parcels were recently removed from the blend in order to focus on fruit concentration and elegance. This was a hot growing season, but Bibi says that 2021 was also very warm (with more violent heat spikes during the summer). He lost a small percentage (about 7%) of fruit in 2022 and claims to have had an abundance of fruit in the challenging 2023 vintage. This wine is packed with dense berry fruit, blueberry, spice and soft earth. Bright acidic freshness adds backbone to Sangiovese.

Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

Takes time to open up, a structured vintage of Testamatta, full of charm. Juicy, savoury, unfussy, white tea, sage, cranberry, red cherry, mandarin, delicious stuff from winemaker Bibi Graetz. Fermented and aged in a mix of 500l casks and 225l new oak barrels, natural yeasts, three punch downs per day, then into neutral oak barrels for 18 months before botting. Harvest September 15 to mid October.

Vivino

Decanter

Finely textured, with a nuanced perfume that fills the glass and takes you to the intense underbrush of Tuscany. Succulent and yet savoury, this has a lilting freshness that is overlaid with ripe berry fruits, sage and white pepper spice, and clear minerality in terms of its scraping texture that makes your mouth water on the finish. Feels light and sculpted and yet has an intensity that skewers you to the spot. This is a great wine, with scope and imagination that doesn't want to let you go. Genuinely stands out among the wines of this tasting, and these are a fine array of wines. As with Colore, Bibi Graetz selects only old vines, the youngest 50 years old from five different vineyard sites across Tuscany, all farmed organically. Fermentations in open 225l barrels with natural yeasts and manual punch downs.

Mad og Monopolet

Jeg vil gerne erkende, at jeg til tider går lidt uden om vine fra Italien, hvilket skyldes, at jeg i starten af min “vinkarriere” ofte blev lidt skuffet og ofte følte, at jeg skulle lede længe efter nogle perler. Bibi Graetz er en perle, og vinen er udsøgt. I hans portefølje er der et bredt udvalg - Testamatta ligger i toppen. Den er lavet på 100 % Sangiovese og efter hysterisk perfektionisme - fx høstes markerne i etaper, således at klaserne høstes, når de er perfekt modne. I næsen har vinen friske noter af solbær, kirsebær, tranebær, skovbund, svampe, trøfler, “umami”, vanilje, lakrids, og det fortsætter derudaf. I munden er den fyldig, helt smooth og i perfekt balance med silkebløde tanniner og en perfekt frugtfylde - det er fremragende vin.

René Langdahl

[TESTVINDER] MÅNEDSTEST – sangiovese fra Toscana: Han har gang i det helt rigtige, ham Bibi Graetz. Højde, vind, gamle sangiovesestokke og nænsom behandling i kælderen. Testamatta er fuld af kirsch, tranebær, uforceret frugtighed og renhed. På tungen er den nærmest som kombination af Casse Basses sangiovese og Dugat-Pys bourgogner. Uforceret, ligeglad skidende hen ad den røde løber, let og dyb på samme tid. Sangioveses fremtid indkapslet. Kan drikkes for sin friskhed og filosoferes over for sin luftige uendelighed. Stor vin. 599,95 KR. v/ 6 fl. supervin.dk

Vivino

(100041 bedeømmelser, set over alle årgange, 22-10-2024)

James Suckling